Organic Kerikeri Citrus

Looking for an organic producer to photograph on a recent trip to Northland my sister- in law put me onto “Mr Organic” who put me on to Okura Plantation.
Okura plantation, an organic citrus orchard in Kerikeri, has been in the family of Mike and Pat Collins since 1954 and has been organic since 1987. To give you some idea of the history of organic farming in New Zealand, Okura plantation’s Biogro certification number is eighty one. If you were to register a new organic operation with Biogro in New Zealand today your number would be in four figures.

Originally three times the size, the orchard has been scaled back to the present size of ten acres. The plantation has crops of navel and Harward Late (Valencia) oranges, Satsuma and Encore mandarins, limes and a recently planted row of Seville oranges. Valencia oranges although named after the Spanish city, are actually a hybridised orange originating in California.

Let loose in the orchard by Mike, the weather gods were on my side providing beautiful soft light for the table top photography and sunlight for the landscapes.

Most of the organic citrus from Okura heads to Auckland for distribution but while I was at the orchard Mike was expecting pickers to take some of his oranges to the local farmers market in Kerikeri. I was surprised when he told me later his oranges had been usurped by some late ripening oranges arriving from Gisborne …six hundred kilometres away.

Orphaned calf “feeding” from horse

The calf having lost its mother was put into a paddock with Spook the horse. The orphaned calf does get hand-fed but clearly feels the need for more. And Spook is happy to oblige.

Three Christmas recipes from Michelin starred chef

Zibibbo’s Adam Newell was the latest chef to grace the demonstration kitchen at Wellington’s City Market. Having photographed A Consuming Passion, the first cookbook by Newell a few years ago, I was keen to see him in action again.

Newell introduced three recipes which included two versions of en’papillote – French for “in parchment”, and a caponata.

While chatting and chopping his way through the caponata, Newell reflected on changes in New Zealand’s restaurant food.  He believes the fusion of the 90’s “should be illegal”, (my wife calls the same phase ‘confusion’). He went on to say the scene is now about emphasising seasonal ingredients and not about playing around with the food too much. Newell reckons we’ve even caught up with Europe – a slightly optimistic view to me.

The first of two en’ papillotes involved salmon sourced from a passionate Akaroa fishery.  Newell said he would be serving this at Christmas, leaving his mother-in-law to deal to the turkey. The recipe is here

The BBQ class was billed by the City Market as the Thrilla in Manila . While struggling to see the link with boxing I guess it could have been the vanilla which received rave reviews by Newell. It’s used in the sugar syrup poured into the en’ papillote dessert and Newell says the dish screams “eat me, eat me, its summer” as the perfumed steam envelops the diner once the parcel is opened on a plate.

The dessert can be made up to one hour ahead of time and Newell says his chefs at Zibibbo know they are in for a busy night if the en’ papillote is on the specials list (not being a cold pre-prepared dish).

The guests enjoyed being served by the Michelin starred chef (one of only two in New Zealand) as Newell delivered the fragrant packages to the tables. Scents of fennel, thyme and fish were followed by fruity fragrances and hints of mulled wine as the gathering pierced the sealed parcels and munched away happily. The $25000 Gaggenau kitchen stood up to the BBQ test well, easily competing with the hooded cookers that will be seen in most kiwi backyards this summer.

Little pigs and more in Canterbury

Following my blog in July celebrating the best ham we and our guests have ever eaten it was a pleasure last week to visit Canterbury’s Murellen Pork, birth place of the 21^st Birthday ham.

Expecting the high pitched squeal of pigs on arrival I was surprised not to hear a peep from the grunters. Located in the lee of Mount Torlesse just out of Sheffield, this resplendent piggery sits on 20 acres of mostly glossy green grass.

Murrellen Pork was set up in 1999 by Murray and Helen Battersby (hence the name – Murr-ellen).  After farming pigs in the area for 40 years the couple realised to upsize the operation they could either focus on quantity or quality – and chose the latter. Now managed by son Colin and wife Karen, Murrellen Pork farms around 1500 pigs at any one time. Colin says this number means they can keep the ‘owner operator’ feel of the business.

Like a Wellington team management text, the farming practice is built around reducing stress. Some techniques follow the research of Temple Grandin , famous for her extraordinary knowledge of animal behavior. The entire supply line has been analysed and set up to avoid stressing the animals unnecessarily. For example the pigs are trucked to Timaru for processing via State Highway 50, instead of State Highway 1. This is not for the scenery but because the truck only needs to stop twice on the way. Every stop on a journey arouses the pigs and they get stressed! On the farm round feeders are used instead of straight designs. Pigs have narrow vision and being able to keep an eye on the pigs on each side while eating allows for a more relaxed mealtime and improves nutrition intake. Other measures include PH analysis of the meat and temperature control of the pig enclosures – you can read more here.

While being fattened up at the Murrellen premises the pigs are initially housed in mobile pens (the piglets arrive from a free range supplier) before shifting to a larger facility for the final five weeks. In a similar manner to Joel Salatin’s mobile chook houses (as described in the book The Omnivores Dilemma) these pens are regularly dragged onto a fresh patch of grass with the resulting rich effluent spread to fertilise new grass and enormous worm farms. The pigs are fed a locally produced vegetarian diet which supports the mobile self-fertilising system.

The effect of the Canterbury earthquakes on Murrellen has been twofold. Restaurant closures in Christchurch meant a substantial drop off in demand and Murrellen’s office, and the historic house where Colin and Karen live will probably be demolished.

If you are after New Zealand pork, charcuterie or other piggy offcuts, Murrellen’s produce can be sourced via discerning Christchurch and Wellington butchers (a full list is available here). They include Ashby’s in Christchurch which won the best bacon award in 2011 with Ashby’s Murrellen dry cured bacon, and Waikanae Butchery who was the Gold Medal Winner (Pork category) in The Great New Zealand Sausage Competition 2009.

Al Brown fires up at Springfield

Fresh from opening Depot – his Auckland restaurant, Al Brown arrived at Ruth Pretty’s garden room to promote his new book Stoked.

In front of a small gathering in his trademark laid back style Brown talked about his backyard, his TV show, and more.

As guests ate their way through tasty morsels including chargrilled tuatuas (actually it was a gas barbeque), smoked kahawai potato cakes and marshmellow caramel muesli slice, Brown explained his philosophy on food.

It’s about savouring the journey to the plate; the prep, slowing down and enjoying. “By the time food arrives on a plate its dead”.  Fitting with this philosophy Stoked is about cooking on an open fire (preferably your own hunter-gathered produce). A stark contrast he says to books of recipes containing only four ingredients, ten minute meals, and frozen sushi.

As Brown munched on a pulled pork sandwich (with apple cider slaw) he described his own backyard on the South Coast of Wellington; the big outdoor fire, a wood-fired oven, a chargrill, a Japanese teppanyaki plate and yet another oven that acts as a warmer.  A set up Brown says was designed “to take cooking classes for Khandallah housewives if the phone didn’t ring after leaving Logan Brown”.

Despite a packed programme Brown has created a winning combination in his new Auckland establishment.  Depot seats 70 and is already doing 300-400 meals a day. No dots on plates, formality left at the door and serving wine ‘on tap’ are some of the markers of this fresh restaurant. Underlining Brown’s approach to food, Depot’s current menu includes freshly shucked oysters and cockles, wild pork salami, wild rabbit rillettes, kahawai, snapper, kingfish and food cooked over charcoal or hardwood.

Unfortunately for Wellington, a Depot style restaurant will not be arriving anytime soon.  Brown says this is partly the due to the capital’s smaller population, but also to his vision of expanding into Australia.  The audience left the garden room warm and contented with Stoked. They’ll be lighting their own fires.

Meat and veges at rugby world cup

Food heros of Welsh culture were spotted amid a sea of green wigs, and floating red dragons at Saturdays RWC game between Wales and the Irish.  The leek, an emblem of Wales since the mid 16 th century, is often referred to in relation to St David’s day on March 1st, but also has links to Welsh rugby (beware nudity).

Lamb (or were they sheep?) is revered in Wales in a similar way to lamb in New Zealand, but maybe the Welsh ruminants provide more entertainment in this video.

I am not sure what part of Welsh culture the chicken stands for but the guy on the left arrived in New Zealand with not much more than this suit…

The dragon got hungry – Wales 22, Ireland 10

4 food ads that make me think

Imagine one of our “down on the farm” organic producers making this ad? Would you trust where the food is coming from?

What – so the chicken is so full of hormones it sucks up to the mustard?

This may seem clever, but in a documentary I saw recently (Jiro Dreams Of Sushi), the Michelen starred chef was pointing to the worldwide proliferation of sushi  being cause of the steady decline of tuna fisheries.

Hmm…I’m thinking John Key would be a vanilla Trumpet.

Rex Morgan – meats at the market

Venison Carpaccio, sirloin steak and lamb pie were all on the menu at Wellington’s City Market on Sunday morning. Chef Rex Morgan of Boulcott Street Bistro presented the “Meat your Maker” class in front of 20 eager participants who paid $50 for the one and a half hour cooking demonstration. Slamming the venison flat with both pot and hammer seemed to alleviate Morgan’s frustration of the early morning wake up due to the introduction of daylight saving.

The venison came from Premium Game Meats in Blenheim ( Morgan thinks  “the shooter” might have come from near Picton). After stressing how scale is important to food presentation, Morgan married the venison with a red pepper mayonnaise, micro greens, olive oil and parmigiano reggiano.

Next to hit the gleaming Gaggenau bench top was a large slab of beef sirloin.

Looking to Italy for inspiration, Florentine steak was next item on the menu. Marinated with lemon and herbs for three days, the finished steak arrived juicy, flavoursome and with mouth filling texture. The sirloin was supplied by Silver Fern Farms in Hawkes Bay.

Rex Morgan is one of New Zealand’s Beef and Lamb Platinum Ambassadors, and it was appropriate for the next dish to feature New Zealand’s woolly food hero. Watched by the class and numerous unofficial market goers, Morgan combined an Alain Ducasse styled pastry top with a very tasty and colourful lamb, tomato and pea filling.

The pies baked, and guests sipped on the wine of the day, a 2009 Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir from Marlborough while Morgan assembled his knife sharpening kit. Use of oilstone and steel was demonstrated including the useful tip – replace the steel with the bottom of a ceramic bowl if this tool is absent.

The class ended on a poignant note when one of the guests praised Morgan’s recipes for being ideal for one person – her kids had long left home and her husband had passed away recently – soul food indeed.

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Seville oranges in New Zealand

The scent of Andalucía, described as bitter and lumpy arrived in my studio recently. Hard to source in New Zealand, it was a surprise to find the Seville oranges had originated from an orchard in Whenuapai.

Jennifer and Roy Taylor, who in the past made jams and chutneys under the Forgotten Fruits label, now deal exclusively with 65 Seville orange trees. Regarded as THE marmalade orange (do not eat!), the Seville oranges are named as such because there are thousands of these trees lining the ‘calles’ of this beautiful Spanish city.

Encouraged to make marmalade (for the first time) I hauled out Jane Grigson’s recipe for whole orange marmalade. It all seemed straight forward until I got to the line “boil vigorously for 10 minutes”. Great I thought – it will be done before dinner. Wrong. It was after 10pm before the jars were being filled.

However the dark, flavoursome brew spread on the next morning’s toast made the effort well worthwhile.

To place an order email Jennifer and Roy at alisontaylor@orcon.net.nz or try your luck at New Zealand’s online fresh produce marketplace

Malaysian Kitchen Night Market at Wellington on a Plate

Described as the “Jamie Oliver of Malaysian cooking”, Chef Wan was the undoubted star of the inaugural Wellington Malaysia Kitchen Night Market. A household name in Asia , crowds clamoured to hear him speak about and cook traditional Malaysian food. The packed audience included a very excited Lauren King, who was one of the lucky recipients of Chef Wan’s demonstration dish Vermicelli Kerabu.

Held in one half of the cramped Opera House Lane, the market was the finale of this years Wellington On A Plate. Wan’s excited commentary (see him in action here), broadcast at full volume, contrasted with the slow moving crowds waiting for their fix of Malaysian cuisine.

Working under intense pressure the chefs from Kayu Manis, Rasa, The Long Bar and other Wellington Malaysian restaurants still managed to serve up delicious char grilled satay sticks, curry puffs, rendangs and gorengs …

…the menus however lacked the real diversity I expected of Malaysian street food. This was a probably a reflection on having only a small number of stands to feed the heaving crowds quickly (the event ran for 3 hrs), with easily identified food.

The fundamental aim of Wellington On A Plate is to attract foodie tourists. Air Asia X ‘s arrival to NZ has seen a dramatic increase in Malaysian visitors to NZ (1300 to 5000 monthly in Christchurch) – no doubt coming for the clean green scenery. Likewise, tourism from NZ to Malaysia has increased markedly. I applaud the organisers of the Kitchen Night Market for getting involved with WOAP for the first time, but there is room to put Malaysian street food on a larger stage, with more variety and enthusiastic crowds in the future.